Author(s): Tony Butt & Paul Russell & Rick Grigg

Surfing

Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three? What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break?
Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. Now in its second edition, this is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer