Author(s): Alain Ducasse
From a dynamic French chef comes a showcase of his life, his influence, and a sampling of his mouthwatering recipes. Alain Ducasse is an influential and talked about French chef, and his cuisine has long been considered to be the best reflection of Mediterranean culinary tradition.
. . . Mr. Ducasse says that all the ingredients at his New York restaurant are American, but the experience of eating there combined with an inspection of his very French cookbook "L'Atelier of Alain Ducasse" (text by Jean-Francois Revel, recipes by himself and chefs he has taught, Wiley, 247 pages, $60) helps to explain why people immersed in the food life of New York have found it hard to accept this French transplant at this own supremely high self-estimate. In Paris, he stands out, as a remarkable practitioner of a great tradition making his talented way into the French future. In New York, with its stunningly diverse, eclectic, cosmopolitan food scene, Mr. Ducasse can look a bit narrow and provincial. . .
by Raymond Sokolov
ALAIN DUCASSE Famous from Paris to New York, from Turin to Tokyo, the renowned master chef is at the helm of two of France's most prestigious restaurants : the Louis XV--Alain Ducasse in Monaco and the Restaurant Alain Ducasse in Paris. Both these temples of French gastronomy have achieved the exceptional honor of receiving three stars from the Michelin Guide. This accomplished gastronome has developed two contrasting and complementary culinary styles : relaxed, spontaneous Mediterranean cookery and rigorously classic cuisine of the French capital. He has already published La Riviera d'Alain Ducasse (Albin Michel) and Mediterranees, cuisine de l'essentiel, published by Hachette. JEAN--FRANCOIS REVEL A graduate of the prestigious Ecole normale superieure, professor of philosophy, writer and journalist, Jean--Francois Revel has written numerous philosophical and political works. Formerly literary advisor to several publishing houses and editor of L'Express, he is now a columnist for Le Point and a contributor to RTL. A member of the Club des Cent, the celebrated gastronomic society, he contributed to Les Francais a table, published by Hachette in 1997. Revel was awarded the Prix Chateaubriand for his lifetime's work and admitted to the Academie Francaise. HERVE AMIARD Specializing in the art of living and gastronomy, Herve Amiard's publications include Portrait de chefs (Editions Contrejour), Les Dimanches de Joel Robuchon, Les Dimanches de Bernard Loiseau (Editions du Chene) and L'art de vivre de Joel Robuchon, published in Japan. He also mounted the first food photography exhibition in 1991 for the American Society of Professional Photographers in Paris. His black--and--white photo--reportages were displayed at the eighth Visa pour l'image exhibition in Perpignan. He was awarded the James Beard Foundation prize for Best Photography for Joel Robuchon's Cooking through the Seasons.
THE ATELIER. PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS. VEGETABLES. RECIPES. OLIVES AND OLIVE OIL. Mediterranean Vegetable Pithiviers with Black Taggiasca Olives and Tomato Syrup (A. Ducasse). San Remo--style Salt Cod and Mesclun with Fried Baby Squid and Crostini (F. Cerutti). Potato Millefeuille with Black Olives, Spider Crab Meat and Coral Vinaigrette (J--L. Nomicos). Olive--stuffed Squab with Olive and Cep Sauce (J--F. Piege). Zucchini Ravioli with Olives, Marinated Tomatoes, Olive Oil and Green Onions (S. Portay). Calf's Cheeks with Olives and Swiss Chard (A. Stratta). ASPARAGUS. Roast Asparagus Sprinkled with Parmesan Cheese, with Savory Beef and Olive Jus and Bone Marrow (A. Ducasse). Early Purple Asparagus, Spring Leeks and Late--season Black Truffles (F. Cerutti). Cooked and Raw Green Asparagus Tips with Warm Oysters and Winkles (J--L. Nomicos). Charcoal--grilled Villelaure Asparagus, Egg Polignac and Truffle Essence (J--F. Piege). Roast Asparagus Parmesan, with Steamed Morels au naturel and Poached Egg (S. Portay). Glazed Asparagus and Veal Sweetbreads Fricassee with Sherry Vinegar (A. Stratta). WHEAT. Semi--dried Pasta with Cream Sauce, Truffles, and Ragout of Cockscombs and Chicken Kidney (A. Ducasse). Spelt Soup with Ewe's Milk Curd Cheese and Mature Pecorino (F. Cerutti). Golden Galette with Cooked and Raw Black Truffles and Celery Root with Perigueux Sauce (J--L. Nomicos). Upside--down Wild Strawberry Tart (J--F. Piege). Champagne--grape Marmalade Tartlets with Crisp Puffed Wheat Cookies and Wheat Nougatine (S. Portay). Mascarpone Ravioli with Spinach, Chanterelles and Parmesan Cheese (A. Stratta). THE WHITE ALBA TRUFFLE. Bresse Chicken Cooked in a Pig's Bladder, with Albufera Sauce and Stewed Vegetables (A. Ducasse). Mona Lisa Potato Gnocchi with Alba Truffles (F. Cerutti). Caramelized Spit--roasted Winter Vegetables, Arugula and Grated White Truffle (J--L. Nomicos). Veal Sweetbreads, Swiss Chard au gratin and Grated Tuber magnatum pico (J--F. Piege). Poached Egg Topped with Grated White Truffle, with Ragout of Calf's foot and Veal Sweetbreads, Baby Onions and Horns of Plenty (S. Portay). Scallops with Celery Root and White Truffles (A. Stratta). SEA BASS. Sea Bass Steaks with Leeks, Potatoes and Truffles (A. Ducasse). Fried Mediterranean Bass, Prickly Artichokes and Anchovy Toast (F. Cerutti). Sea Bass Steaks, Shrimps and Ratte Potatoes with Caviar (J--L. Nomicos). Sea Bass with Spider Crab Jus and Seafood Garnish (J--F. Piege). Sea Bass and Bacon Tournedos Meuniere, with Green Lentils and Crispy Bacon Garnish (S. Portay). Sea Bass with Mediterranean Vegetable Salsa and Bouillabaisse Sauce (A. Stratta). TURBOT. Breton Turbot with Shellfish (A. Ducasse). Spit--roasted Turbot Steaks with Lemon Salsa and Swiss Chard (F Cerutti). Fillets of Turbot Studded with Lemon Confit, Clams, Artichokes and Samphire au naturel (J--L. Nomicos). Breton Turbot with Champagne Sabayon Glaze, Asparagus and Crawfish (J--F. Piege). Turbot Steaks, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Onion and Basil Baked in an Earthenware Dish (S. Portay). Turbot with Braised Celery, Black Truffles and Potato Puree (A. Stratta). LAMB. Spit--Roasted Suckling Lamb, Seasonal Vegetables and Dried Fruit Condiment (A. Ducasse). Roast Lamb with Parmesan Fennel, Green Onions and Baby Fava Beans Sauteed with Savory (F. Cerutti). Rack of Lamb with Spiced Souris and Sweetbreads (J--L. Nomicos). Roast Pyrenean Suckling Lamb with Lamb's Liver Ragout and Red Pepper (J--F. Piege). Roast Fillet of Lamb with Glazed Lamb Ribs, Potatoes Roasted with Bacon, Tomato Confit and Green Onions (S. Portay). Rack of Lamb in a Herb Crust, Pepper Ragout and Socca Nicoise (A. Stratta). LEMONS AND CITRUS FRUITS. Candied Menton Lemons, Filled with Fresh Basil Sorbet, and Glazed Grapefruit Tartlets (A. Ducasse). Menton Lemon Tartlets (F. Cerutti). Scallops with Citrus Fruits and Salsify (J--L. Nomicos). Duck with a Citrus Glaze and Giblet Melba (J--F. Piege). Floating Citrus Islands (S. Portay). Salad of Marinated Abalone, Belgian Endive and Radicchio with Pink Grapefruit and Lemon (A. Stratta).