Author(s): Duke Boyd
Surfing, Jack London remarked, is "a royal sport for the natural kings of earth." The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world's best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it's like, in this crowded world, to "seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts." (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Boyd does an exemplary job of presenting a rudimentary cross-section of surfing's collective character study in one elegant hardcover. The Surfer's Journal Photo Editor Jeff Divine's rich imagery makes up the meat of Legends Of Surfing, with archival morsels coming everywhere from John Severson and Doc Ball's respective collections to Ron Stoner and Warren Bolster's classics. The pull quotes and captions are a midterm in themselves, while TSJ Publisher Steve Pezman gives the work and the author additional street cred in his Foreword...While surf magazines primarily care about who's coming, Legends Of Surfing is all about who's come and gone, and who's still going. It's compulsory for any surfing connoisseur's bookcase..." - Eastern Surf Magazine This is an attempt at an entertaining encyclopedia of surfing's all-stars, with Boyd contributing fun facts and richly chosen quotes, while Divine -- photo editor of the slick Surfer's Journal -- raids the archives for images that give a sense of personality to each surfer. Not just a casual read for the surfing buff, but a useful reference on all things surfing. Honolulu Star Bulletin Who were the 100 most important people in surfing? Legends of Surfing, by Duke Boyd, answers that question once and for all! In his 200-page book (big book, with big photos), he profiles not just the best surfers, but 100 of the greatest surfers, shapers, filmmakers, photographers and surf media pioneers. We've read a lot of books about the best surfers, but this is pretty cool because it talks about the early filmmakers and surf magazine owners and their contributions to making surf mainstream, including the influence Hollywood had on the popularity on surfing... There is some seriously good photography in this book, and in each profile there is a not-too-long commentary discussing each person's contributions to surfing. If you are looking for one good history book that profiles the major people of surfing (and not just the surfers themselves), this is a good call. - Daily Stoke (www.dailystoke.com)
DUKE BOYD is himself a legend of surfing. He is a surfer, of course, but even better known as co-founder in 1962 of Hang Ten surfwear, the first surfwear clothing line. He lives in Hawai'i. JEFF DIVINE (San Clemente, CA) is himself a legendary surfing photographer. He is the photo editor at The Surfer's Journal.